What is a version?
In the jewelry sector, a setting refers to devices made of precious metal for securing gemstones. One of the aims is to optimally highlight the beauty of the gemstones through a suitable setting. Different settings are suitable for different types and shapes of gemstones. The choice of setting depends mainly on the cut of the stone and its general quality, which are analyzed primarily using the 4C properties .
The most well-known versions are:
- prong setting
- frame setting
- sewer socket
- beam setting
- rubbed version
- Pavé setting
- Millegriffe's version
- Chaton setting
- blended version
Prong setting
A characteristic feature of the prong setting is that the gemstone is only held by narrow prongs made of precious metal. This allows maximum light to enter and the gemstone is shown off in its full size and beauty - this is one of the reasons why this setting is so popular. Traditionally, the brilliant cut used for the claw setting, but oval cut and princess cut diamonds are also very suitable.
Frame setting
The bezel setting is characterized by the fact that the gemstone's girdle is surrounded by a continuous edge of precious metal. The gemstone does not rest on the base of the setting, but on a metal support attached to the inside. This allows its underside to be exposed and allows more light to enter. While the bezel setting can be used for any gemstone cut, it is particularly popular for brilliant cuts, oval cuts and round cuts, as it is often difficult to produce cuts with straight and sharp edges.
channel setting or tunnel setting
Several gemstones, usually of the same size and identical design, are held in place by two lateral rails made of precious metal using this setting. Brilliant-cut diamonds are often used for these settings, but princess-cut or emerald-cut gemstones also look very beautiful, as there are no gaps in between.
bar setting
In the bar setting, a gemstone is placed between two elements made of precious metal. This type of setting is popular, for example, for memoire rings set with diamonds all around, where the precious metal strips look like sleepers on train tracks. The sides of the gemstones remain open in the bar technique - the light remains and the gemstones can sparkle beautifully. The most popular diamond cuts for the bar setting are brilliant cut and oval cut, as well as princess cut and emerald cut.
rubbed version
In the so-called rub-in setting, the gemstones are inserted into recesses on the piece of jewelry and secured by pressing the metal around the gemstone. The crown of the stones protrudes slightly above the surface of the precious metal. In this setting, the gemstones are particularly protected from damage. The rub-in setting is suitable for almost all diamond cuts, as it encloses the gemstone and can be made individually for all cuts.
Pavé setting
In a pavé setting (French for "paved"), numerous tiny gemstones are placed next to each other in rows. Ideally, there is as little empty space between the gemstones as possible. Small, barely visible round elements made of precious metal are used to fix them, creating the impression of a continuous coating of shimmering gemstones.
Millegriffe's version
Similar to the pavé setting, numerous small beads made of precious metal form the edge of the millegrain setting. They are made with a so-called millegrain wheel and serve both as decoration and to fix the gemstone.
Chaton setting
A chaton setting is characterized by the fact that the gemstone's girdle is completely surrounded by precious metal and is therefore held extremely securely. This setting also has prongs that are pressed onto the gemstone above.
blended version
For a ring with a cut setting (similar to the pavé setting), a hole is drilled into the ring rail and metal shavings are pressed onto the outside with a burin. The gemstone is held in the setting by four small beads and is particularly suitable for rectangular cuts such as the princess cut. The gemstone is placed in the hole, the precious metal is pressed onto the stone and then polished smooth.
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