A navette is a cut that is reminiscent of a ship's hull due to its elongated basic shape ending in two points. This similarity has given it the nickname "boat". The arrangement of the table and the other 56 facets corresponds to that of a brilliant cut , which also enhances the brilliance and fire of the gemstone.
Another name for the navette is marquise. This became established in the 18th century, starting with the French royal court of Louis XV. The king's mistress, Marquise Jeanne de Pompadour (1721-1764), had a particular preference for the bicorne fashion. The gemstone cut was named marquise in her honour. Its pointed ends are also said to have reminded the king of his lover's smile.
What are the characteristics of a good navette cut?
When choosing the color of navette diamonds, you should be careful because yellowish discoloration is particularly noticeable at the pointed ends. You can play it safe with a color between D and H. Inclusions, on the other hand, are particularly noticeable in the center because the facets are larger there. Impurities are less noticeable at the edges.
In order for the gemstone to have a beautiful and harmonious shape, the length-width ratio should ideally be between 1.75 and 2.25.
It is also important that the gemstone is neither too high nor too flat, otherwise the so-called bow-tie effect can occur, which is characterized by dark spots in the center of the gemstone that do not reflect light.
For the cutter, the navette is a complicated shape that requires a lot of experience and skill. When buying diamonds, you should therefore pay particular attention to an excellent to very good cut quality.
The Navette – a cut for all gemstones
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